Voices

Today we completely scored at Voices. For those that don’t know I started surfing here back in 2003. I called it Voices because both Ben and I heard voices out there but obviously no one was around. It doesn’t break very often because of where it is but it is an insane wave. It was going bananas today. There are four other waves in the area that I’ve also surfed but again they are very susceptible to being flat or savaged by wind. Hanno, Tim and I paddled it while Leigh kept an eye on us from land. We all scored a couple of mental lefts and then we switched to the right as the wind swung round. I didn’t really get a good right, but Hanno caught a few bombs. Tim got caught inside at one point getting hit hard enough to send him deep below a tombstoning 10’6 gun. Amazing session, solid 30 foot faces. A long time ago here, two boats went down in the same week. On the first day I surfed here one of them was lying just a little inside the reef. A crew of men came in on a barge to lift it. It was a creepy sight. (The full story is in my first book). One of those men is a local to the area and today he came out with his daughter to watch us surf.