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I fell badly this week. I was slightly too late on take off after paddling my 8'2" board into a wave and I went airborne. I couldn't get the board to stick and I fell down the face landing very hard on my shoulders and neck momentarily blacking out before coming to and going under water. Thankfully the wave dragged me a little out of the impact zone and I was out of the way of the next breaking wave. I sometimes wear a thin impact vest over my suit but I didn't yesterday. I had taken a kid out there with me so he could watch from the channel but I was surfing the peak on my own. Thankfully all is well except for some whiplash today.

Pictures by Sara O'Neill


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