May isn't exactly prime time for great waves in this part of the world but we happen to have a run of winter style swell this week. Thankfully I am no longer struggling with by back injury and able to enjoy it! I had just recovered from a couple of months of injury when I did Surf 154 but since then I haven't surfed proper waves on a short board until now. If you have ever had an injury that has immobilised you, I'm sure you can relate to the constant niggling in the head wondering if you can push on or do you need to take it easy for a while yet. Thats where I am, pushing it but kinda cautiously for now.
In this country we are always looking for windows in tide and wind to score ridable waves for a short time. before the next squall. It looks like we might be lucky enough to have a few more days of nice surf in the coming week. The nights are longer, the sea temp is up, its a great time to have lots of swell.
Here is a quick clip....almost time to shed the winter layer for a lighter wetsuit.