Winter Surf

During December we had some amazing surf conditions. Over the past 5-10 years I've noticed that the swells we get tend to be short lived compared to how it used to be . They often come through one day and are gone in a matter of hours. If we are lucky they last through a day. But in December there was a run of over a week of swell, non stop all day every day and with good size. Now in January we have just had a week of spring like weather bringing more days of back to back surf, albeit a little smaller now. I've been enjoying solo sessions at home and away lately.

I deleted email, message and social apps from my phone for most of last year and left my phones at home when I went away so I could be more present in what I've been doing, old school seems to work better for me. I'll dump some updates on socials at some point soon.