When I tell people I was away surfing, the common misconception is that if the surf wasn’t good then it has not been a good trip. To be honest, the surfing is just a tiny part of it for us. The journey, the mishaps, the banter, the lighting fires, sleeping badly but not caring etc etc is what it is really about. Of course great surf is part of it and in most cases we score good waves but the story and the memories come from everything else, the friendship the time spent travelling. It is that stuff that we giggle about many times after the trip rather than the amazing surf.
