Hanno Tim and I surfed one of the craziest waves on the island today. Ive only surfed it a handful of times in my life cos it takes very specific tides to be safe to go on the biggest ones. It was intense to say the least with rocks sticking out of the end section. I’m going to write a chapter in my new book about today because it illustrates a very important principle. We all eventually scored a few waves today and Hanno took a trip through the rocks but was ok.