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  • Al Mennie

Otter




Otter Countless sessions at Otter this season but today was fuckin mental! We’ve been paddling every swell out here but today we towed. First I swung Hanno into a few, then went and got Tim. This was Tims first proper sized tow day. The tide was raging and it was snowing hard. We had no room for error but Leigh had our backs on the second ski. The tide was super low and continually dragging us away from the reef. I have never surfed here with such a low tide. The big ones were draining the reef and the huge black rock was coming out of the surface before being detonated on by the falling lip. Tim was amped. I didn’t want to waste anytime and get him to fall out of the zone so I was hunting for the bombs to get him on early and go. This is a really difficult spot because of where it sits. The sets swing in from the nearby headland and sometimes miss the reef but then theres a cross set that comes through and goes inside out. Its very difficult to be in the right spot at the right time. After a few missed runs with the ski and tim on the rope we were deep and late and one was coming. I got him up and drove straight into the path of this big dark wall. To my right the reef was coming up and to my left the big wall was getting steeper. I blipped up over the thing and Tim swung out and charged down into the pit. My last sight was of the reef inches below the surface and the wave hanging over him about to barrell. He was deep as fuck and charged into the section ahead of him as I got blasted by the falling spray in the offshore wind. He didn’t come out of the tube and got smashed hard. All the training paid off, I swung inbetween the next wave and started racing over the white water and reef to find him. He popped up and without hesitation followed exactly as he was taught he training, straight onto the sled no messing and we gunned it out of there. Hoots and high fives followed!!!!! Wee warrior!!1 Fuckin love this shit! Makes me feel alive! Love when all the guys have a good session where it brings out the madness and the warrior in everyone. This shit is like nothing else!

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(c)2020 Al Mennie
 

Big Wave Surfer - Ocean Adventurer - Author - Black Belt - Causeway Coast
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